Leather care

Our collars and leashes are cut from full-grain leather. It is the top layer of the hide, the strongest part, and the only kind that gets better with age: it darkens, softens and takes on the shape of your dog’s neck. It asks for a little care in return. Ten minutes, a few times a year.

The routine

• After wet walks: wipe with a soft, dry or barely damp cloth and let the leather dry naturally, at room temperature. Never on a radiator, never with a hairdryer: fast heat makes leather brittle.
• Every few months: work a small amount of colourless leather balm or conditioner into the surface with a soft cloth, let it absorb, then buff. If the leather starts to feel dry or looks matte, it is asking for balm sooner.
• Mud and salt: let mud dry, brush it off, then wipe. Winter road salt should come off the same day with a damp cloth: salt draws the oils out of leather faster than anything else.

What to avoid

• Soaking. Leather is not ruined by rain, but it should never be submerged. If your dog swims, take the collar off first.
• Household cleaners, alcohol and wet wipes. They strip the oils and the colour.
• Storing in plastic or in direct sun. Leather wants to breathe: a drawer or a hook indoors is right.

The brass

Our hardware is solid brass. It will slowly develop a warm, darker patina: that is the metal ageing honestly, not a fault. If you prefer it bright, rub with a soft cloth and a drop of brass polish, keeping the polish off the leather.

When something wears out

Stitching and hardware are meant to outlast the dog’s fastest years. If a seam gives or a buckle fails under normal use, write to us before you retire the piece: hello@house1888.com. Hand-made means it can usually be hand-repaired.